Glenn Collins wrote about wireless wine lists in The New York Times this past week: “A New Best Friend for the Sommelier.” Specifically, he was talking about the touch-screen device that will be used at Tony May’s new restaurant, SD26, on East 26th Street in New York. It sounds like a great system and a practical tool for a 1,000-bottle list with prices from $34 to $3,400. Collins’ article reads as if this is the first attempt to use technology to replace hefty wine list books. Aureole Las Vegas actually debuted its eWinebook eight years ago. I used it there in 2007 and it is now employed at other Charlie Palmer restaurants. Collins’ article motivated me to research other systems and I discovered an interactive tabletop projection technology developed by Potion Design. It is currently being used by two wine bars in New York City–Adour (at The St. Regis) and Clo. Andrew Bradbury is the creator and founder of Clo and it’s no surprise that he was also the driving force behind eWinebook when he worked at Aureole. Unfortunately, I haven’t been to Clo yet, but it will certainly be on my list the next time I visit Manhattan. It is located on the same floor as Thomas Keller’s Per Se in the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle. Clo calls its system a “revolutionary multi-user, multi-touch projection menu, which allows customers to explore and easily find information on all of our available wines.” Some people may find these systems intimidating or gimmicky, and I admittedly still enjoy paging through an old fashioned wine list. There are, however, undeniable benefits from this technology. It is useful and fun to instantly sort by category or region, and access vintage and tasting notes, blends, and food pairings Sommeliers are obviously still available at all of the above-mentioned establishments, but wine drinkers who still do not feel comfortable peppering a server or sommelier with wine questions, will welcome a friend such as eWinebook. Thanks to Mr. Collins, I was encouraged to dig for more information about electronic wine lists. It would be great to see him take the ball and run with a more comprehensive review of this important and functional technology. www.nytimes.com/2009/09/02/dining/02tside.html
Church & State–An Excellent L.A. Restaurant!
•August 23, 2009 • Leave a CommentI was at Church & State in Downtown Los Angeles for the first time this past Thursday, and enjoyed one of the finest meals I have had in a long, long time. Food, wine, service and ambience were all clicking at this bustling French bistro. The neighborhood felt like Manhattan, particularly TriBeCa or the Meatpacking District. This isn’t the downtown framed by skyscrapers; it’s what I would, for the lack of a better name, call the southeast portion of Downtown LA. (Does anyone have a label for this interesting area?)
The chef is Walter Manzke, formerly of Bastide and Patina. If it’s not his day off, you will surely see him in the open kitchen and he frequently wanders out into the dining room. I was fortunate to shake his hand when he dropped by our table. He’s a charming, unpretentious guy who easily transitions between orchestrating the magic in the kitchen and schmoozing customers at their tables.
The menu contains a delicious offering of Hors D’Oeuvres, Pots de Macon, Salades, Tartes, Charcuterie, Plats Principaux, Fromage, and Desserts. It’s a menu built for sharing, and you will certainly want to experience as much as possible. The entrees are available in both regular and small (petite assiette) portions, which makes the entire collection even more conducive to exploration. Some of my favorite dishes were the Gambas à la Grenobloise (Santa Barbara spot prawns, brown butter, lemon, capers) the Tarte de Saumon Fumé (smoked salmon, leeks, lemon crème fraiche), and the Loup de Mer (Sea bass, chanterelle mushrooms, red flame, and Thompson seedless grapes). The salmon tart, done Alsatian style, was particularly good and was a generous portion. We didn’t order them, but I hear the Oreilles de Cochon (Crispy pig’s ears, sauce bearnaise) are also tasty.
Sommelier, Josh Goldman, has built a wine list comprised of all French gems at reasonable prices for both glass pours and bottles. We enjoyed a glass of Huber & Bléger NV Brut Rosé, a delicious sparkler made in Alsace from Pinot Noir. They also pour sparklers from the Loire Valley (chenin blanc, cabernet franc) and Beaujolais (gamay). 21 other white, rosé and red wines are poured, and 35 additional wines are available by the bottle (only five selections are over $100 and most are in the $30 to $70 range). It’s obviously not a huge bottle list, but there is an excellent pairing for every item on the menu and something for all palates. The selections are admittedly quite geeky, but varietals are listed for each wine, and there are plenty of Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots to keep everyone happy. I appreciated the more esoteric appellations that use grapes like tannat, gros manseng, picpoul blanc, and poulsard. Additionally, I am always a fan of any list that contains three food-friendly chenin blancs from the Loire Valley: Montlouis, Vouvray, and Savennieres, for $40, $42 and $45, respectively.
The service is smart, engaging and efficient. Our server was prepared to expertly describe everything on the menu and his suggestions were greatly appreciated.
I’m already looking forward to my next trip to Church & State. I highly recommend it. www.churchandstatebistro.com (213) 405-1434
JAZZ Apples, Cheese, and Wine
•August 9, 2009 • Leave a CommentMy favorite dessert after a big meal is a cheese course, but I also enjoy making a complete meal of a cheese plate with the proper wine, fruit, nuts, and bread.
I recently had a craving for a cheese plate, and already had some great cheeses in my refrigerator from Bristol Farms including Parmesano Reggiano, Saint Agur, P’tit Basque, Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog, and Explorateur.
As far as wine is concerned, I like to stick to one selection and enjoy the variety of the cheeses. After much meticulous research, my brother Dave and I have determined that Champagne and sauvignon blanc are the most versatile wines to have with a cheese plate. There are certainly other wines, including red and dessert wines, that are perfect pairings for individual cheeses (the Sauternes/Stilton combo is a great example), but it’s difficult to pair one specific wine with a cheese plate, unless you reach for Champagne or sauvignon blanc. I didn’t have any chilled Champagne, so I reached for a bottle of Long Boat Sauvignon Blanc, a delicious wine from high-altitude vineyards in New Zealand’s Marlborough region.
I still needed the accompaniments, though, and headed over to Gelson’s, which is close by in my neighborhood. I picked up a La Brea Bakery sourdough baguette and some roasted almonds, and just needed the fruit to complete the plate. Admittedly, I typically put most of my time and effort into selecting the cheeses, and always tend to be a creature of habit with the fruit choices. Apples are my favorites, and I usually reach for the old standard: Golden Delicious. I remembered, however, that a friend of mine had recently mentioned a relatively new apple on the market called JAZZ Apples and I was happy to learn that Gelson’s carried them. I figured this was a great way to explore something new, and see if I could take my love for cheese plates to the next level with a component other than the cheese or the wine.
I was pleased to discover that JAZZ Apples are firm and tangy-sweet. I have since enjoyed them alone as a snack, but they were perfect with this meal because the crisp acidity helps cut through the richness of the cheeses, particularly triple crèmes such as Explorateur. There is much more going on with this apple than with your typical Red or Golden Delicious varieties. If JAZZ Apples were a wine, I would certainly call them complex and sophisticated. The ones I bought were from New Zealand, but they are also grown in Washington; check out the JAZZ website for availability and some great recipes and nutrition information. I also just started following them on Twitter; their username is jazzapple. In addition to Gelson’s, you can find them at Whole Foods, Bristol Farms, Albertson’s, Vons and Safeway. What a great way to “jazz” up a cheese plate. I always felt confident that I was using the best cheese, wine and bread, but now I am convinced that I have found the perfect fruit to bring it all together. www.jazzapple.com
Does the New York Times Appreciate Rosé Wine?
•June 14, 2009 • Leave a CommentI typically enjoy Eric Asimov’s wine articles in the New York Times, but I have to respectfully disagree with his comments this week regarding rosé wine, “Basking With Rosés.” Asimov says: “With few exceptions, rosés are simple wines…” and “Most rosés are like beach reading…” and “Rosé is the quintessential daytime wine, perfect for outdoors, wonderful in the summer.” I believe that rosé can be a much more serious wine than he suggests, its versatility is the main reason it is now enjoyed year-round, and serious wine drinkers consume much more rosé than Asimov cares to admit.
I also found it interesting that an article about rosé could be written without mentioning Lirac, or Tavel, the AOC in France’s Rhone Valley dedicated exclusively to rosé production. For those who would agree that Tavel is serious wine, but argue that it is an anomaly in the world of rosé production, I would remind them that about 400,000 cases of Tavel are produced every year, and plenty can be found for under $20 a bottle (Asimov’s benchmark for his article). Lirac is another Rhone AOC that consistently produces superb, complex rosés.
Other rosés that are a bit more pricey, but worth every penny are Bruno Clair’s Marsannay Rosé (he also makes red and white Marsannay), Robert Sinskey’s Vin Gris, Tablas Creek’s rosé from Paso Robles, and Provence’s Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé, quite possibly the finest rosé in the world.
Some of my other favorites for under $15, include Yangarra from Australia’s McClaren Vale region (from Rhone varietals grenache and syrah) and the many, many fine examples from Spain, including Bodegas Castano (from Yecla) and Artazu (from Navarra).
Those who only tend to enjoy rosé on the porch, the beach or during the summer, are missing out on year-round delicious food pairings. Rosé is easily the most versatile food wine, is available in many different styles from many diverse grapes, and is produced in just about all serious wine regions of the world.
Lucques – A Los Angeles Gem for 10 Years
•May 17, 2009 • Leave a CommentHow do you feel when you dine at a great restaurant? How do the top restaurants generate that sensation and how do they consistently replicate it? In a recent attempt to describe the enduring allure of Lucques to a friend, I was motivated to mention another one of my favorite restaurants, Union Square Cafe in New York. I distinctly remember the “feel” of dining at Union Square in the late 90s, when I lived in Manhattan, and I have subsequently enjoyed the same experience many, many times at Lucques. The cuisine, wine program, ambience, and service at both establishments are superb, and amazingly the whole is much, much greater than the sum of its parts. This puts them on a different level from other restaurants and it is what generates the special sensation that motivates one to return time and time again. At this level of dining, one should always expect more. Lucques consistently delivers and that it why is has remained a gem in the Los Angeles restaurant scene for over 10 years.
Sommelier Caroline Styne and Chef Suzanne Goin are the two brilliant owners behind Lucques and its sister restaurants, AOC in Los Angeles, and the recently-opened Tavern in Brentwood. I have been fortunate to know them for many years and have always admired their expertise, composure, and charm in the middle of bustling restaurants, with employees, customers, pesky suppliers and the media, vying for their attention. There are a lot of brains, creativity, and grace in the room when these two are around, but I also have never met anyone at this level who has remained as humble.
I recently stopped by Lucques to have dinner at the bar, and enjoyed a glass of Domaine Michel Ray Macon-Vergisson La Roche 2006 and Domaine de Fontsainte Corbieres Gris de Gris 2007. Caroline’s wine list is thoughtful and deep, but thankfully not encylopediac. Her selections will challenge you to enjoy fun, esoteric producers and appellations that both please the palate, and expertly complement the food. The less adventurous will still be comfortable with some relatively recognizable choices. I have had the good fortune of tasting wine with Caroline many times over the years and her sharp palate and expert, unpretentious evaluation are unsurpassed in the industry. She is also making her own wine, Jules Harrison Pinot Noir and J&H Chardonnay. I have enjoyed both–they are delicious, true to the varietals, and reasonably priced.
The cuisine at Lucques has been called Pan-Mediterranean, Mediterranean-influenced Californian, and Franco-Mediterranean. Call it what you like–it is absolutely delicious. I have enjoyed many, many starters and entrees at Lucques over the years, but the starter I enjoyed on this occasion, Fried Squash Blossoms with Manchego, Marcona almonds and green romesco, was quite possibly the finest dish I have ever had there, or anywhere else (The Fontsainte Corbieres Gris de Gris was a great pairing). Other current standouts are Tasmanian Salmon with potato cake, cucumber salad, yogurt and pistachio aillade, and Grilled Lamb Loin Chops with turnip purée, citrus-glazed carrots, tamarind and dates. The Braised Beef Short Ribs with sautéed greens, cippolinis and horseradish cream are a legendary fixture on the menu and will make you think twice about ever exploring another entree, although you must. Incredibly, the majority of the main courses are still under $30, and the portions continue to be generous. I have also enjoyed the $45 three-course prix-fixe Sunday Supper. The popularity of this meal inspired Suzanne Goin’s book “Sunday Suppers at Lucques.”
The Bar Menu offers amazing fare and is available Monday thru Thursday after 9:30pm, and Friday and Saturday after 10:00pm. Among others, check out the Prosciutto and Butter Sandwich ($10), the Omelette with soft herbs and cantal ($14), the Grilled Cheese Sandwich with roasted shallots ($14), Spaghetti Carbonara ($16), and Steak Frites Béarnaise ($19). If you enjoy a cocktail before dinner, try the house creations: the Lucques Gimlet, The Green Hound, and the Marseilles #7. Some creative and tasty seasonal drinks are also currently available: Fragola Balsamico (Miller’s Gin with strawberries, Cointreau and balsamic reduction) and the Black on Black (Leblon Cachaça with blackberry compote, thyme and a black salt rim).
I typically order cheese for dessert and Lucques offers a delicious three-cheese plate with currant and walnut toast. If you enjoy something sweet at the end of your meal, Pastry Chef Breanne Varela has created a sinful collection, including Hazelnut Milk Chocolate Cake with coffee and salted caramel, Meyer Lemon and Ricotta Tart with Pudwill Farm’s blueberries, and Apple & Date Tarte Tatin with creme fraiche and vanilla ice cream. Seasonal sorbets, and chocolates & confections are also served.
One of the most special aspects of Lucques is the service. This hallmark–which has remained consistent over the years, even as they have opened more restaurants–was initially inspired and nurtured by Suzanne and Caroline. They have, however, hired talented associates, namely Director of Operations, Cynthia Mendoza, and General Manager, Matt Duggan, who have maintained the original charm and feel of Lucques. Matt exhibits the same engaging management style I have experienced with the founders, and Cynthia makes you feel like a million bucks and a honored guest in her home, all the while maintaining a keen eye on the floor and the smooth operation of her restaurants.
An equally important component of a great restaurant is obviously the ambience, and it is certainly a substantial part of what makes Lucques so special. The building was originally a carriage house and was expertly redesigned by Barbara Barry. The lighting, colors, brick walls, fireplace, the building’s now famous facade, and the charming patio are perfectly balanced with a warm and comforting sophistication. Having a rough day? Simply walking through the door at Lucques can be a transforming experience.
Have you ever thought about exactly what makes a restaurant special for you? I hope I have effectively conveyed why Lucques generates that amazing feeling for me. 8474 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90069 (323) 655-6277
Terry Teachout — The Wall Street Journal
•April 19, 2009 • Leave a CommentI typically do not post about articles that do not specifically mention food, wine and hotels, but Terry Teachout’s “Tinkering With the Ideal,” in the Sightings section of the Weekend Journal (April 18-19), was so profound that I couldn’t resist. Teachout opines about “when artists decide not to leave well enough alone.” Not only does this lesson apply to the famous writers and painters outlined in this excellent article, but it relates to winemakers, chefs, hoteliers, and, yes, everyday schmucks like you and me. The article ends with a commentary about Henry James. Teachout writes, “…the greatest of geniuses are just like the rest of us working stiffs. All they can do is aim high and hope for the best–and sometimes they, too, long for a second chance to hit the target. Speaking as a lesser mortal, I find that knowledge to be wonderfully consoling.” I too, find it consoling, whether it relates to one of my agonizing posts on foodwinehotels.com, or the simple e-mail I draft that is somehow never pleasing to the eye, all the way up to the last second when I hit the send button. What is the similar moment of anxiety for the chef, the winemaker, or the general manager of a hotel? The beauty of Teachout’s article is that it connects the brilliant tinkering of great artists with the anxiety and frustration of everyday folk like me (and perhaps you?). You can reach Terry Teachout at: teachout@wsj.com.
Wall Street Journal – OTBN Turns 10!
•March 22, 2009 • Leave a CommentLast year I posted “The Wall Street Journal-A Super Bowl Controversy?” about an article in the Wall Street Journal by Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, regarding wine drinking at the Super Bowl. I also mentioned their wonderful “Open That Bottle Night” (OTBN). Well they just celebrated the 10th edition of OTBN with a great article in the Weekend Edition of The Journal, called “OTBN: Ports (and Rosés) in a Storm.” The husband and wife team of Gaiter and Brecher have created and nurtured a phenomenon that was much needed in the world of wine drinking. We all have had that special bottle of wine that we purchased or received as a gift, that we waited and waited (and waited) for just the right occasion to open, and then somehow never ended up pulling the cork. OTBN has encouraged thousands of people to open that special bottle and then share the experience with others with a submission to the WSJ. This Weekend Journal’s article chronicles some of the incredible, heartwarming stories that Gaiter/Brecher have enticed their readers to share. I have always appreciated their columns regarding wide-ranging considerations about drinking and selecting wines, but OTBN is certainly one of their most profound contributions to the world of food and wine. You can also watch them talk about OTBN and see a slideshow about reader celebrations at WSJ.com/OTBN.
La Grande Orange Café, Pasadena-Highly Recommended!
•March 15, 2009 • Leave a CommentIf you have not been fortunate enough to visit La Grande Orange Café (LGO) in Pasadena, I highly recommend it for drinks and/or dinner (they also serve an excellent lunch and brunch). When you’re riding the Metro Rail Gold Line north through Old Town, and make the stop at Del Mar Station, it’s located just outside your left window in the charming and historic Santa Fe Train Depot building (Raymond Avenue at Del Mar Blvd.). LGO is owned and operated by LGO Hospitality which also operates, in Phoenix AZ, Chelsea’s Kitchen, La Grande Orange Grocery, La Grande Orange Pizzaria, and radioMILANO. LGO Pasadena has three distinct areas for dining: the charming patio; the warm, romantic dining room; and lively, friendly bar. LGO’s wine list offers 19 by-the-glass options and a smart “Favorites from Santa Barbara” section with 12 selections. I have enjoyed the Byron Pinot Noir from Santa Maria and the Firesteed Rosé from Oregon’s Willamette Valley; both are versatile choices to match the diverse food menu. The remainder of the list is from California, Oregon and Washington. Also check out the interesting White Sangria, and the draft beer offerings of Oregon’s Mirror Pond Ale, and Pasadena’s own Craftsman brews. The food menu is delicious and creative. If you think you have tasted enough versions of Tuna Tartar, you MUST taste one more. LGO’s is served with guacamole, shredded radish, and house-made tortilla chips. I was also blown away by the Shrimp Ceviche with avocado, tomatoes, jicama and lime juice, also served with the scrumptious house tortilla chips. Both the Tartar and Ceviche are generous portions, which is true of most dishes. All entries are priced under $30, and most are closer to $20. Enjoy Filet Mignon (10oz) for $26, or Roast Prime Rib of Beef (14oz) for $24 (both dishes are served with vegetables and mashed potato). Their six different “Taco Platters” are creative and tasty. Try the Hardwood-Grilled Swordfish version or Ahi Tuna with chipotle aïoli. Moms and dads will appreciate the “For Kids We Love” section that includes Mac N’ Cheese, PB&J Rolls, and Grilled Cheese. I have also witnessed a few happy adults ordering from this menu. The deserts are over-the-top delicious, particularly the Red Velvet Cake. Serious coffee is served from individual French presses. Add the warm ambience, and friendly, efficient service and you have am extremely reliable, high-quality restaurant that is also a great value. I have visited LGO at least 10 times and have always experienced consistent quality and service. Watch for another La Grande Orange opening soon in Santa Monica. (Reservations: (626) 356-4444)
Houston’s, Pasadena: They Consistently Impress!
•February 21, 2009 • Leave a CommentI had another great meal last night at Houston’s, this time time at their Pasadena location. Hillstone Restaurant Group is one of the most consistent, high quality operators in the country. Their other concepts include Gulfstream, Bandera, R+D, Hillstone Manhattan, and their Grill concepts in Rutherford, Palm Beach, Cherry Creek, Los Altos, and Woodmont. Their dependable service, quality, value, and ambience, make it easy to bury them with accolades. I’m obviously not alone in this assessment–all of their units are typically packed, even in these current economic conditions. Let’s start with their smart wine program. Most of their compact list in Pasadena is from California, with the exception of Champagne and a couple of selections from Argentina and Australia. They pour 29 wines by the glass, just about half of the entire list! Both the prices and pours are very generous, and if you have a question about a particular selection, the servers are more than prepared to talk about the wine. Still not convinced about what to order? They are happy to pour you a taste to make sure you are happy with your choice. I had a glass of Bruno Paillard Champagne for $11.00. It’s rather rare to find a full pour of Champagne for under $18.00, let alone $11.00! I also enjoyed a glass of Belle Glos Pinot Noir Blanc from Mendocino, which is actually a rosé, and is listed under “More White Wine.” The well thought out list contains a good assortment of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, a few blends, and other varietals such as Syrah and Malbec. The food menu is comprised of American favorites such as burgers, sandwiches, creative salads, and entrées such as roasted prime rib, Hawaiian rib-eye, seared tuna steak, and three different fresh market fish, among others. I love the fresh fish sandwich with cole slaw, and this particular evening I had the rotisserie chicken with Louisiana-style dirty rice. The highest priced entrée is $32, but most are in the 20s and my rotisserie chicken was $19. Salads and sandwiches range from $12-18. Never thought of Houston’s for sushi rolls? For a fun change of pace, start your meal with a glass of Champagne and a Thai Tuna Roll or BBQ Eel & Mango Roll. “Today’s Soup” was Mexico City Style Chicken & Rice, which was absolutely delicious (and a big portion). It is always amazing to see how fast an order arrives at your table. Everything is obviously fresh and prepared to order, but it is incredible to witness the efficiency of the staff and kitchen on a busy night. For desert, try (and I would recommend sharing) a Warm Five-Nut Brownie or Apple Walnut Cobbler. They also serve serious coffee. Kudos to General Manager CB Gersch for a well-run operation. Because of the dining room layouts, bar configurations, and locales, each Houston’s has its own unique personality and feel. Mr. Gersch has molded this particular unit into a consistently remarkable experience. www.hillstone.com/#/restaurants/houstons/
Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) – 1st Growth Bordeaux and So Much More
•March 31, 2008 • Leave a Comment
The Barons de Rothschild family has owned the famous Château Lafite Rothschild since 1868, but starting in the early 1960s they acquired other prestigious properties in France’s Bordeaux and Languedoc regions, Chile, Argentina, and Portugal. I was always aware of the quality of the portfolio, but I never fully appreciated its range and depth until I tasted through the wines with Matthew Sharp, the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Portfolio Specialist for Pasternak Wine Imports. I had the distinct pleasure of working with Matthew at a California wine distributor, and we have remained good friends ever since. His passion for food and wine, and his astute perspective on wine producers, appellations, and industry trends, continues to be an inspiration for my exploration in the world of wine. We tasted through most of the portfolio (with the unfortunate exception of Château Lafite Rothschild), at a recent dinner in Hollywood with our good friend and former associate, Tim Malette. I particularly enjoyed the Château d’Aussières from the Languedoc, a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. I am looking forward to posting about each wine individually, but this stunning portfolio deserves a special mention as a group, not only as a salute to its fabulous pedigree, but to properly highlight a beautifully compiled collection of red, white and dessert wines from around the world. The group’s philosophy, as outlined on its website, is: 1) respect each terroir; 2) use local winemaking expertise in tandem with that of its own teams’; 3) provide the necessary investment to enable each project to succeed; and 4) have the vision to look to the long term and allow the time it takes to make great wines that are the true reflection of their provenance. This is obviously the formula that made Château Lafite Rothschild one of finest wines in the world, and it is the reason that the rest of the portfolio has also garnered such well-deserved praise. www.lafite.com
Thomas
ThomasFavorite.com 